4th September 2011 Bad Duerkheim

I woke up in the night with wet feet. A massive thunder storm after the heat of the day. We had gone to bed leaving the roof light open.

We’ve started to move northwards, as we wish to tackle the journey is small chunks so we can enjoy every day of our holiday rather than spend a couple of whole days driving. Picked Bad Duerkheim because it was about two and a half hours drive from Nuremberg and has an ACSI campsite for 15 Euros. Another Knaus but much nicer than the one in Nuremberg – and at half the price! A large site with lots of neat and well cared for permanent caravans and chalets - huge pitches, set in short rows along the edge of a lovely swimming lake with beach. Children and adults were enjoying the water in yesterday’s heat. We just dozed in the shade of the van, resting after yesterday’s exertions.

Spent an 'interesting' night at the Nuremberg Stellplatz. Pleasantly situated and full with other motor homes (including some with German Shepherds), we didn’t actually feel threatened, but there was obviously a ‘family’ of permanent residents living in a scruffy caravan on the Stellplatz. The ‘family’ consisted of several young men and one older one. As they sat at a picnic table under a tree, a loud argument broke out (in a language we didn't recognise - not Arabic, but similar sounding.)  One of the young men became extremely agitated, having evidently lost something important which, despite repeatedly searching the woods, could not be found. Although Stellplatz was in a dead-end at the side of the park, cars drove down at regular intervals during the evening and transactions appeared to take place between members of the ‘family’ and vehicle occupants. Had the distinct impression that, despite their humble abode, the ‘family’ was running a lucrative business!

Our over-nighting experiences in the city didn’t spoil or enjoyment of it. The most ‘touristy’ place we have visited so far on our trip, but extremely striking. Although much of it was destroyed in the war, many beautiful old buildings remain.

St Lorenz Church was also very impressive. Probably more beautiful than St Sebald’s – again with simple lines and soaring gothic arches. Its treasures are its sculptures rather than ostentatious ornamentation.

We also climbed up to the castle for a view down over the Old Town and went on a visit of Duerer’s house – set up as number of furnished rooms, including the artist’s studio - very interesting.



By early evening, we were both tired. A huge bric a brac market had been set up in the streets – but we just bought our souvenir tins of Lebkuchen and cycled back for an evening of watching the comings and goings of the Stellplatz.

Heading for the Mosel today – taking another couple of hours off our drive home.

Total distance travelled since leaving home – 1184 miles.

2nd September 2011 – Nuremberg

Now sitting at a Stellplatz in Nuremberg. Appears to be quite a pleasant location at the edge of parkland. No facilities but we’re only here for one night.

Arrived yesterday morning and went to Knaus Camping right next to the Messe.

The only campsite in Nuremberg, so it’s got the monopoly – 31 Euros per night. As it seemed very pleasant – lots of space – unmarked pitches – and, most importantly, washing machines, we were prepared to pay the price for 2 nights. By the evening, the place was heaving with people and German Shepherd Dogs – The Schaeferhund Verein was holding its Championship Show at the Messe and people had travelled from all over to compete. Lots of Italians and some Scandinavians and Belgians as well as Germans. It’s debatable which were the noisier – the exhibitors or the dogs. German Shepherds protecting the territory of their pitches, while the owners proceeded to have a raucous time, working on their hangovers in preparation for a hard day at the dog show. (By this evening many of them will hardly be speaking to each other – believe me – I have ample experience of the dog showing world!)

Final straw came when we saw they had erected a party tent for post-show revelries. Decided we weren’t prepared to pay 31 Euros per night for the privilege of  being kept awake all night so moved to Stellplatz this morning.

The main advantage of Knaus Camping is that it stands almost on top of the Nazi Rally Grounds and within easy biking distance of the Museum. We found this out by accident as we cycled down Grosse Strasse – the massive main road built by Hitler to hold his marches. The Museum itself is very well-done, housed inside one of the main Nazi buildings – very informative about the rise of Nazism and the cult of Adolf Hitler.

After spending a good couple of hours in the museum, we cycled into the Old Town - about 4 miles away, but we’re getting fit now. Walked around and had a meal in the square near the old Rathaus, then went into a church – St Sebald’s. An organ recital was underway and the whole experience made a deep impression on us both.

The display in the church ‘St Sebald –  Denkmal fuer den Frieden’ – ‘St Sebald - A Monument to Peace’ is extremely moving. It serves to emphasise the seriousness with which Nuremberg faces its own past. For centuries an important city – culturally, economically and politically – not only did it see massive destruction during the Second World War, but it also accepts and acknowledges the part it played in the rise of the Third Reich and the Hitler Cult. St Sebald’s church was largely destroyed during the Second World War, but diligently re-built. A plain and impressive building. Not as ornate as many of the edifices which we have seen recently. Neither of us liked the cathedral in Regensburg. It spoke of power and wealth rather than spirituality. St Sebald’s is the opposite. Plain lines and soaring gothic arches, a number of posters have been stationed down the transept, showing photographs of Nazi rallies and the destruction wrought on Nuremberg by the war. Beside them are extracts from the Bible, denouncing evil of the war, and underlining the triumph of good over evil through the symbolism of the regeneration of St Sebald’s as a ‘Monument to Peace.’ Even though we're not religious, we couldn't help but be moved.

31st August 2011 - Regensburg

I did say our plans were ‘subject to alteration.’ We’re now in Regensburg. Tom Tom took us the exciting back route to Pottenstein - lots of lovely single-track roads – luckily with no traffic.

Area round Pottenstein quite rugged, a jura landscape with high cliffs. Very attractive. Climbed up to the Burg which has been inhabited for 1000 years. Now a private museum - quirky and interesting, with furnished rooms. There are also viewing points a bit higher up than the Burg, with views across the valleys. Well worth the climb, but not for the faint hearted.

(Pottenstein also has a very nice Aldi.)

Had misgivings about Azur Camping in Regensburg. The only campsite in the town but with reviews saying things like ‘Never have I met with such bad-mannered campsite staff’, and ‘Never again!’ However, they must have changed or trained the staff because we found them very pleasant. An expensive campsite at 27 Euros, but quite adequate with marked out pitches and grassed areas for sitting out. Plenty of showers and toilets and an easy to use motorhome service point – although we are now much more competent! (Could have used the Stellplatz outside the gate and probably would if we went again.)

Beside the Danube, this time. Much wider and more fast-flowing than the Regnitz. A river whose main purposes are trade and commerce rather than pleasure – but there are still some little beach areas where people sit out on the grass and swim in the river. Boating is also very popular.  Doesn’t look inviting like the Regnitz, though.

Again, there is a cycle track right into town – so off we went to explore. A prosperous city with many historic buildings and the longest stone bridge north of the Alps. Regensburg’s strategic position on the Danube and favourable climate lead to its growth and wealth. The Romans established themselves here. It later grew on trade in salt, leather and wine. Strange to think that the greatest threat to the beautiful stone bridge came as a result of the growth in road traffic in the 20^th Century. The bridge was considered inadequate to properly cater for the trams and cars which ran across it and considerations were given to demolishing it!

Went back into the town today to have a good explore. Also took a 50 minute boat trip – very popular with tourists.

A bit tired now, so will probably eat in tonight – then off to Nuremberg tomorrow.

Verdict on Regensburg – In many ways, a lovely city – much bigger and more commercial than Bamberg. Has more of a Munich-like, southern Bavarian feel and the beer is light (both Muenchener Hofbraeu and Hacker Pschorr have beer halls/ gardens here.) Worth a visit but prefer Wuerzburg (that may just be my bias creeping in!)

29th August 2011 – Hochstahl – Aufsess

Aufsess is a commune comprising several small villages, in the Fraenkische Schweiz (Franconian Switzerland). It is mentioned in the Guinness Book of Records as the place with greatest density of breweries per head of population. We are staying at the Stellplatz behind one

of these breweries – Brauerei Reichold in Hochstahl – Aufsess, - deservedly designated a ‘Top Stellplatz’, run by a very hard-working and enterprising family. Our van is on hardstanding with a grassed area behind – looking out over fields of flowers and meadowland towards the forest. I don’t think you could find a better place to park your van. We lay in bed this morning and drew back the curtains to look at the view.

The Stellplatz has clean, modern showers and toilets – and all for the price of 5 Euros per night plus 1 Euro for electric. Food in the Gaststaette is also good and reasonably priced. G. not too keen on the beer, though – the dark, Franconian type – a pity because it’s very cheap to buy in boxes.

There are lots of marked cycle and footpaths around Aufsess, including the Brauereienweg – 14 km long it takes you on a round trip of 4 breweries. We did the route today – half by bike and half on foot – steep in parts and my road bike doesn’t do rough tracks too well. Didn’t go in the breweries, though. Monday again and all is quiet in Germany!

We’ve been planning our route back. Three weeks is definitely not enough to do all that we would have liked. Pottenstein tomorrow for one ore two nights, then Nuremberg, (G is particularly looking forward to the Nazi Party museum), Regensburg, Heidelberg, Trier, Southern Belgium, Ghent and Calais. (Subject to alteration!)



27th August 2011 – Sesslech

Just when you’re not expecting it, something comes along which blows your mind – and that’s what’s happened to us today. We’ve been to Veste Coburg – the cradle of most of, if not all the European royal families. It was the home of Prince Albert, and some of the children of Victoria and Albert came back there and took on various European titles of their own. It’s a huge thing – full of all sorts of treasures – but with visitors outnumbered by staff. Down in the town square of Coburg, another Fest was taking place – a good band, and the food looked very tasty – but the weather is cold today – the band of low pressure caught up with us overnight – and the atmosphere was subdued.

It wasn’t Coburg and its many treasures which had the greatest impression on us – it was the little town of Sesslech where we have chanced to end up spending the night. Staying at a campsite – inappropriately name Sonnland – given today’s weather.

This evening, went on the bikes up into the town.  Sesslech is completely surrounded by gated walls outside of which there are the remains of a moat. There’s a notice up saying that the town gates are closed at weekends, so we had to enter through a pedestrian walkway – an old tunnel at the side of the gate. Stepping through the gate was like stepping into another era. Half-timbered buildings, a complete absence of modern advertising hoardings, cobbled streets, fancy wrought-iron signs in the style of Rothenburg ob der Tauber outside many of the businesses, several inns, a town hall in a small market square. Absolutely no traffic, although a few residents' cars parked in the streets,  and very few people around. About as uncommercialised as it is possible to be in the commercial world of the 21^st century. I dare say it’s completely different when traffic is driving through, but for us, on this quiet Saturday evening, it was like magic.

Back in the 16^th century the people of Sesslech were enthusiastic participants in the Peasants’ Uprising against domination by the Prince Bishops. The people were poor, scraping a living from the land, harvests had failed, inflation was rampant and tithes had to be paid to the Church and its representatives. Houses of the wealthy were destroyed, as were the presbyteries at Sesslech and many other places. Standing in the almost deserted streets of this town in 2011, the uprising was not difficult to imagine.  This felt like a village which looked after its own.

Unsurprisingly, the uprising was quashed by the Church, and the people of Sesslech forced to re-swear their allegiance to the Prince Bishops of Wuerzburg. An impromptu court was set up in Sesslech to pass sentence on the guilty. Many of those taking place had their eyes poked out as punishment, and some of the leaders were executed outside the town hall.

26th August 2011 – Bamberg

The height of frustration. Sitting on terrace of Camping Insel, trying to use free WiFi, but for some reason, can’t connect. Had hoped to update blog, but that looks as though it won’t be possible.

The cooler weather hasn’t materialised yet. Still 37 degrees but more comfortable than the last few days with a slight breeze.

Cycled into town to eat last night. Very busy in main streets of Old Town, but there were still some peaceful spots in the back streets. Had to set off back to campsite at 8pm as we had no lights on our bikes. Felt a bit like being 14 again – rushing to get home for 9pm so I wouldn’t be in trouble with my Dad.

Been into town again this morning – looking round shops this time

I’m just watching at a dog, sitting in a bicycle trailer outside the campsite reception. Its owner has gone into reception, but the dog hasn’t moved. Why can’t we train the Dallies to do that?

Bamberg 25th August 2011

Went into Bamberg on bikes yesterday, but much too hot for sightseeing. Temperatures in mid to high 30’s again, and heat reflecting up off Bamberg cobble stones. Cycle ride into Bamberg very pretty, along the side of the Regnitz, through a park. People cooling off, swimming in the clean and languid river, lying on the meadow grass under trees.

A thunder storm in the evening – acorns clattered onto the van from the tree which had sheltered us from the heat of the day.

Off to Bamberg again, this morning. A jewel of a city, once the capital of the Holy Roman Empire, and unlike Wuerzburg, lucky enough to have completely escaped damage during the war. Water power enabled the growth and development of early industry and of the city itself and the two arms of the Regnitz with the Main-Danube Canal add to its beauty. An impressive cathedral and Prince Bishop’s Residence very much in the same style as the Wuerzburg Residenz – a row of beautiful old, half-timbered ex-fishermen’s houses lining the river, the Michaelsberg, former Benedictine monastery – the list goes on. Built on seven hills, the whole of the Old Town is a maze of mediaeval buildings and streets and is the home of eight breweries. 

Pleased to see, they were setting up for a Fest in the town and it looks as though they will be opening it tonight. Beer, wine, food stalls have been erected in the streets and bench seating has been set up. By mid-day the streets were filling up. We decided to come back to the campsite and relax for the afternoon – then cycle back into town tonight.

Had intended to move on tomorrow, but we like it so much here that we’ve decided to stay another night.

Weather forecast is for much cooler, but hopefully not too much rain. We may go to Coburg next.

745 miles travelled from Home at 25.3 mpg.

24th August 2011 – Bamberg

If Basil Fawlty  ran a campsite, it would be Campingplatz Mainblick in Schwarzach. Every facility – but all at a price. People say that Caravan Club sites are over-regimented with rules and regulations. They should come to Mainblick! There are hand-written signs everywhere instructing campers what they can and cannot do. Many of them couched in very direct terms. ‘Stop nicking the liquid soap!’ The most blunt, however was the sign on the steps leading to reception telling people that if they wished to sh*t in the showers they should stay at home.

When we called into the bar, parched for a beer, the lady of the establishment was loudly declaiming to anyone prepared to listen, about a letter she’d had from the Arbeitsamt (Employment Office) regarding her dismissal of an employee. The letter was passed around to be read by all who wished to see it. I was bound to suspect that the ex-employee had had a lucky escape.

Last night’s entertainment involved a row between the owner and a Happy Camper who had been trying to make his escape using the automatic barrier, when it had fallen off, narrowly missing his car. Luckily no damage done.

We departed this morning to the sound of a heated discussion between man and wife regarding his meanness and her profligacy with money. It’s fair to say we shall not be returning there.

Now at Campingplatz Insel at Bamberg-Bug. From the ridiculous to the sublime! A lovely shady location along side the Regnitz, unmarked pitches with lots of space, free showers and a very nice owner at reception.

It’s very hot again so we’re just sitting in the shade. Will go into Bamberg on the bikes later.

23rd August 2011 Wuerzburg, Franconia

One of the most charming aspects of Wuerzburg is its lack of  tourists. In my book, it’s at least as appealing as Heidelberg, but much less commercialised. I’m biased, of course. I spent a semester here at the university in 1974/1975, when I was 20 – and things that you do when you’re 20 tend to make a lasting impression.  If anything, the city has improved with time. The 1970’s wasn’t a great era for town planning – even in Germany. Nowadays, the centre of town is a pedestrian area, and so much better for it. The Alte Mainbruecke, a narrow old, be-statued, stone bridge over the Main, is beautiful with its pavement cafes rather than with road traffic of the 70’s. (It seems incredible now, but I’m sure the trams used to run over it too). On a hot summer’s day like today (34 degrees in the shade), the pavement cafes are full and buskers play classical music on street corners. A Mediterranean atmosphere but more peaceful and refined. This is a university town. It’s lively and vital – a very pleasant place to spend time. We walked round in the blazing heat soaking up the atmosphere.

The campsite at the Canoe Club looked very nice, but we decided to drive on. Now pitched at a commercial and busy site at Schwarzach. Too hot to go out exploring on the bikes – maybe later, when it’s cooler, and we’ve eaten the Bratwurst we bought in Kaufhof.

23rd August 2011 Aschaffenburg

Looks like it’s going to be another scorcher today. My estimate for yesterday would be at least 30 degrees. Went on the bikes up into the town. Being Monday the castle and all museums were shut, but we the castle Weinstube was open so we sat outside and had a drink. G had his first Apfelstrudel of the holiday. He likes to score them out of 10, but this being the first one has to be the standard setter. Verdict ‘Very Good, but I’ll score it tomorrow after I’ve had another.’

The castle, itself looks very impressive from afar – a massive building in red stone, towering above the Main. Close up, though it looks unrefined – a vulgar statement of power.

Found a nice Gaststaette in a quaint street of old half-timbered buildings and had very pleasant meal in evening – another ‘first of the holiday for G’ – He had the Bratwurst mit Sauerkraut. I opted for Pfifferlinge mit Semmelknoedel (wild mushrooms with dumplings) .

The evening was much cooler than the day so went for a bike ride along the Main, through the gardens which border it. A lovely atmosphere! Lots of young people – teenagers and students – sitting round in groups on the grass having picnics, some playing instruments –guitars and drums- and singing.

Back at the Stellplatz sat out, like everyone else, and had a drink. Very peaceful. Citronella candles twinkling around.

We are the only non-Germans here and, as we often find in Germany, people are very eager to get into conversation with us.

Probably moving on to Wuerzburg today, but nothing is certain.  

22nd Aug 2011 Aschaffenburg

Our first Stellplatz. G’s a bit worried about Stellplaetze – thinks we’ll just end up parked in rows with other motorhomes, but the Aschaffenburg Stellplatz eases this fear. A large piece of ground by the river Main, plenty of space to put out table and chairs under the shade of trees - much needed in this heat!

When we set off this morning, we input co-ordinates for both Aschaffenburg and Wuerzburg Stellplaetze into Tom Tom intending to head for Wuerzburg. Aschaffenburg was the fall-back position in case of heavy traffic. About 2km before the Aschaffenburg turn off, Tom Tom informed us that there was a 50 minute delay on the Wuerzburg route, so we came to Aschaffenburg instead. Of course, by the time we arrived in Aschaffenburg, the Wuerzburg delay had completely disappeared. 1-1 Tom Tom! ‘You’re like a charming but philandering lover. We don’t really trust you, but feel that we need you. Still, we’ve never been to Aschaffenburg before and if you hadn’t lied to us we maybe would never have come here! So maybe, just maybe, the last laugh is on us this time!’

21 August 2011 - Mendig - Rheinpfalz

At a small campsite, found in the ACSI book,  just off the Autobahn north of Koblenz  - Camping Mendig. Very convenient stop off point – constant traffic noise but German-clean facilities, a pleasant Gaststaette and not at all busy. Arrived here from Bruges, early afternoon. Intended to drive only as far as Aachen but Autobahn was so quiet and driving easy so we decided to carry on further. Walked along footpaths at back of campsite to reach Maria Laach, which was very busy with Germans taking a Sunday drive out to the lake, making most of good late summer weather. Hadn’t expected to come here. Last time we came was in the week of German Reunification. Andy was 8 years old and it was October and we were the only ones on the lake. Very different from today.





Set off from home Friday lunchtime. Had a last minute child-in-a-toy-shop panic about where to go, long range weather forecast on Wetter.com for Franconia not so good, but decided to stick to our plans. Drive to Folkstone was pretty grim. Tom Tom decided that ‘the fastest route’ would be straight through the centre of London, but  the game was given way when we noticed signs telling us we were about to enter the low emissions zone. Ha, Ha – Out smarted you this time Tom Tom!  Including a couple of stops it took 6 and a half hours. Were able to relax when we got to terminal, though and had a shower in van before going in Tunnel. Another luxury of motorhoming! (G not too happy when I poured myself a glass of wine in the van and then, in the excitement of the moment, asked him to hold it for me while I rummaged through my bag for our passports at check-in. He seemed to think the Boarder Police might not be impressed by a drink-driver).

 Arrived in Calais and straight off to Cite Europe to park up for night. A good sleep then off to the Aladin’s cave of Carrefour to stock up on life’s essentials – wine, beer and French cheese. I love foreign super markets!

Then off to Bruges to Camping Memmeling. Very different from where we are now – the smallest pitch we’ve ever had and not very clean facilities. A bike ride into Bruges – very pretty - Farrow and Ball meets Playmobil. Some beautiful buildings and lovely squares. 20 Euros for Moules Frites soon changed our plans to eat out. Instead, used our ‘emergency rations’ then sat outside in warm evening, plundering our Carrefour booty.